His majesty Hedi Slimane in Cèline

11 ottobre 2018

His majesty Hedi Slimane in Cèline

Hedi Slimane is like this: surprising. And the new creative director of Celine, could not betray the expectations of the brand and detach completely from the wake of its predecessor Phoebe Philo.

In fact, it is a more rock and at the same time more decadent line, as it was already in Dior Homme and in Saint Laurent.
The change has already been traced by the title of the show: Celine 01 and the accent that has disappeared from the letter e.

On the other hand, the designer is accustomed to the changes, as well as to the sexy mood: the woman Celine appeared on the catwalk, in fact, is sensual, strong, absolutely self-conscious. There is also an aggressive vein in her, which manifests itself in mini dresses, necklines, tight silhouettes. And next to women's fashion, the maison's first men's collection also appeared. And the relevant public also seems to be different, considering that Slimane aims straight to the young and predominantly Asian client.

A spectacular show, in Place Vauban, in the shadow of Napoleon's tomb and in the presence of VIPs like Lady Gaga, Karl Lagerfeld, Virgil Abloh, the family of Bernard Arnault. On the catwalk there were followed by cocktail dresses in silver, red and gold, which alternated with semi-transparent corset dresses for young bikers with delicate accessories such as veils and pearls. The title of the show was "Paris La Nuit" and next to the beautiful models, has also seen models with tight pants and double-breasted jackets with six buttons, dandy redingote, trench coats, fake leopard coats, military short jackets and rocker Parisian similars . A style that met the taste of the genius of Karl Lagerfeld, who commented, lapidary: "I liked it? These are exactly the types of clothes I want to wear, so naturally yes ".

On the other hand, there would have been a trend reversal that could already be expected from the invitation to the fashion show: an album bound in black and white photographs taken in Paris. These include a disco ball, a faded boiserie, a scratched wall, shoddy curtains and special locations (among Hedi's favorite hangouts in Paris) such as Balajo, Bus Palladium, Chez Castel, Chez Jeannette, Chez Moune, Folies Pigalle, La Cigale , Whisper Club, Crazy Horse, La Station, La Java, Le Rouge and Pile ou Face. In short, Hedi has put a lot of himself into the new era of the brand and has done so in a completely conscious: a symbolic fall of the ancien regime, announced by an equally symbolic roll of drums at the beginning of fashion show. With an Arnault already visibly satisfied with this new contemporary era.

Starting from the soundtrack Le Femme written specifically for the show by Marlon Magnée, Sacha Got and Grace Hartzel and that accompanied the 96 looks that, as the creative director has specified, are absolutely unisex: a new genderless phenomenon is coming?

Share it: